Design for the way you live

Knowing What Cabinet Finish is Right for You

2011-08-27T15:28:00.004-04:00

I have worked with many clients over the years who have really struggled in selecting the finish for their kitchen cabinets. This can often be a great source of stress for the homeowners. Should the cabinets be stained wood? Or painted? Or a combination?

In my experience many homeowners know right away that they want a cherry kitchen, or a white kitchen. Then there are others who are really fighting with themselves to make the right choice. Men frequently prefer stained wood on the cabinets, and yet many women prefer a painted cabinet, white or cream, with or without a glaze.

I often find that homeowners have a "dream kitchen" that they have had in mind for many years, and if you ask them what their initial gut response is to finish selection, they know instantly. Homeowners can get into trouble if they over-think their initial concept. Trying to select something that is more current, or different is not a great idea on cabinets. When you remodel your kitchen you want it to last for many years. So going with a trend is not a great plan, unless that trend is what you would have selected in the first place! My rule of thumb is that if you have liked a particular look for the past five to ten years, you will probably still like it for another ten years.

I once had a client select a taupe color paint for her kitchen. The cabinets were actually being painted when she changed her mind and experienced some panic over making the wrong choice. I called the Amish cabinet makers and had them pull her kitchen cabinets out of production and let them sit while she evaluated her selection. In this case she changed the cabinets to white, which is what she had intended to select in the first place. She is now very happy with the kitchen.

It is very common to mix finishes within a kitchen. Often the perimeter will be painted with a wood stained island. This can often meet the needs of both the stained wood lovers and the painted cabinet lovers. It can also be done in reverse with stained perimeter and painted island. I think the practice of mixing finishes in a kitchen will be here for many years. When it is done tastefully, it can be a timeless look. I also think that furniture like pieces in a kitchen are here to stay.

In making finish selection I try to help my clients make selections they can live with long term. Classic finishes that will look just as good in fifteen years as they look today.

Selecting Paint Colors

2011-08-27T15:07:00.001-04:00

Lately I have been selecting a LOT of paint colors for a lot of clients. It seems to be painting season for one reason or another. I do have a few tips about selecting paint.

For exterior paint: Sample, sample, sample. Paints are always more pale outside than they are inside. The daylight diffuses the color significantly.

Years ago, when I was preparing to have our house painted, I had a paint color in my head that I wanted to find for the exterior. It took about seven samples on the garage door before I found the one I wanted. Buying those samples of paint saved us from making a big mistake in selecting the wrong color. They were definitely worth the $35.

I also find that whites and creams tend to blend together outside. So if you are not able to match the existing white windows perfectly, don't worry about it. In the big picture the cream trim around your white windows will blend together and look fine.

For interior paint: You really have to see the paint color in the space that is being painted. Do not expect the taupe that is in your neighbors foyer to look the same in your powder room. The light within a space impacts how the color will look. The number of windows, the direction the windows face, the ceiling height, and the trim around windows always impact how the paint will look in a room. So again, sample, sample, sample.

I am a big fan of creamy or white trim around windows. The reason is that the window trim is the first thing the daylight hits when it enters a room. The color of that trim is then diffused through the room. I once painted my bedroom trim blue, and it cast a blue light throughout the room, which I did not appreciate. The same is also true of dark trim around windows, it absorbs much of the light thus making the room seem darker. If you prefer a cozy, cave like space, then this is an advantage rather than a disadvantage. For those who prefer a space to be light and bright, then the white (or creamy) trim will do the trick.

For wall color, you really should get a sample and paint it on the walls. Several walls. The color will seem different on each wall, due to how the light will hit it. For some reason, yellow seems to multiply itself more than other colors. So for a yellow room, I always suggest to make it one shade lighter than you want, because by the time you paint all the walls, it intensifies the color significantly. If you plan on using a dark color , such as red, expect to paint multiple coats. Many paints claim to have one coat coverage, but the application process is imperfect, so I always expect to need two coats, and with dark colors, three.

For ceilings I often suggest a creamy white. I am not a fan of the old ceiling white colors that have a gray undertone, I find that it makes the ceiling look dirty. I prefer a creamy white that keeps the ceiling looking warmer. I also love adding color to a ceiling. Light blue ceilings can give the impression of sky, but you have to be careful about the color on the walls working with the ceiling color.

I know this has barely scratched the surface of paint selection. There are many nuances to coordinating colors, selecting the proper sheen, and much more. However, if anyone buys a sample of paint because they read this, then this blog is a success!

Hoods - The Kind Found In Kitchens.

2011-04-25T06:00:00.026-04:00

I often tell my clients that the vent hood is the most technical piece of equipment that goes into their kitchen. It is rarely the appliance that customers are excited to upgrade, and it does not give you the joy found in buying a new refrigerator or cooktop. Nonetheless, it is a vital piece of equipment.

The hood needs to be the appropriate size and power based on the cooktop you have selected.

Please find a knowledgible sales person to help you make this selection. My favorite appliance person is Marie Barnesdale from Heydlauff's in Chelsea, Michigan. Marie knows what she knows and knows how to find out what she doesn't.

There are two major ways to deal with a vent hood. Hide it or flaunt it. Buying a more decorative hood means you will leave it exposed. These are most commonly stainless, and there are many styles to select from.

This is an example of a stainless, exposed hood.

The other way to deal with the hood is to buy a liner and blower and put it into an attractive wood surround. There are an unlimited number of styles and designs for these hoods. They can be arched, straight, have corbels, slant back at an angle, the list goes on and on. It is a personal preference.

Both the exposed hood and the wood hood surround can be attractive. It is important to get the proportions correct, and not to squeeze certain types of hoods too much. Sometimes you need to leave a few inches on either side of a hood. When you select the wood surround, you are making that into the focal point of your kitchen. It should be attractive and well proportioned.

One word of caution; the hoods need to be between 30-36" above the counter. They also tend to need a depth of 19" or more. They are supposed to be that way in order to draw the fumes up from the cooktop. However, that does mean they are sticking out a fair amount, and right at head level.

There are also times when a downdraft vent is called for. Particularly when the cooktop is an island. Some of these pop up when needed, then retract down. I think they are pretty slick, the down side is that they tend to eat up a fair amount of cabinet space below the cooktop. They also need to have the proper ducting to run through the floor joists to get outside.

There is a downdraft in this decorative stone arch.

I will also add a word about vent hoods that recirculate the air. They do not work. (OK, that was four words.) They may be fine for some kitchens, but certainly not for gas cooktops, or people who do a lot of cooking. They simply filter the exhaust and recirculate it into the kitchen. These are commonly found in the micro hoods. Although micro hoods CAN come with the exterior venting option.

Whichever style you select, be sure that the mechanics are appropriate to your cooktop, and that you know how the venting will be done. The best thing is to vent it directly outside, and sometimes remote blowers are required to make that a possibility. Then there are issues of where will the blower go, what size duct is required and how many angles will it need to turn along the way. See, there really are many important details to consider.

The aesthetics are, obviously, important, but the function cannot be overlooked in this underappreciated appliance.

MaryBeth

Wood Finishes - Satin vs. Matte

2011-04-22T06:48:00.002-04:00

I was working with a client a few months ago and ran into an issue with the cabinets she had ordered. She was not, at that time, ordering her cabinets through me, or through any manufacturers that I deal with. She already had a design, and a cabinet-finish selected when she hired me.

I went with my client to look at the finish samples for what she had ordered. We discovered that the manufacturer had recently changed all of their stained wood finishes from a satin finish to a matte finish. Satin and matte refer to the amount of sheen on the cabinet door. (In other words, how shiny it is.) Unfortunately the matte sheen made the doors look like plastic, and that was the only sheen level available. (It was awful.) The solution for this client was to switch manufacturers, change wood colors and tweak the design. She ended up paying slightly more for the custom cabinets, but they are fabulous.

There are certain things to keep in mind when selecting sheen level for stained wood cabinets. A high sheen will reflect more light, and therefore, show fingerprints, dirt, etc, more readily than a lower sheen. It is much like glossy paint. Flaws in the wood will be more evident also (and wood does have flaws). A satin sheen has just a bit of gloss, giving the wood depth, it will also show some flaws in the wood, and some fingerprints, but it seems to be a happy medium. The matte sheen, at least with some manufacturers, can look very plasticy. (yes my spellcheck didn't have that word so I added it.) However, some manufacturers can make an attractive matte finish, and it does hide more of the fingerprints and flaws.

With some clients it is important to have the sheen level coordinate with other pieces in their home. A house full of antiques with glossy finish may need a higher gloss finish on the cabinets. I find some clients are attracted to sheen, and others are not.

The issue is that before ordering cabinets, clients should know exactly what the doors will look like. Request a current sample. A surprise when the cabinets arrive is rarely a good thing!

MaryBeth

The Snowball Effect

2011-04-04T07:00:00.005-04:00

Projects have a tendency to snowball. My husband calls it "project creep". Simply put, it is the way projects tend to get larger, with more components added, than was originally planned.

My favorite example is a project I have with a young couple and an old house. They were new to the house, it needed some updates, and they wanted to start with the wall color in the kitchen. The cabinets were old and painted black, there is a red brick fireplace that they wanted to keep, wood floors, glossy beams overhead, black and white 4x4 tile checkered counters and a golden color on the walls.

Well, wall color was not really the problem with this space. I was unsure of their budget for the project, so I initially asked if they would be open to changing the countertops as well as finding a new wall color. They agreed that new counters would help. Within a few days they called me to tell me that they also wanted to replace the cabinets, as it really did not make a lot of sense to put new counters on the old cabinets. At that time they decided to replace all the appliances.   We clearly needed to address lighting and a new backsplash along with the cabinets and counters. They also decided that it would be the right time to deal with some of the odd architectural elements in the space, so we added that.

Then homeowners decided to tackle the mudroom at the same time. So we had the Amish cabinet maker make lockers and shelves for that space. Once the old pantry in the mudroom was removed, we needed to deal with the flooring, as part of it was missing.

As the kitchen and mudroom renovation progressed, the homeowners had an increasing sense of dissatisfaction with their living room. There was some work on the mantle that needed to be done and they did not like the start white paint on it. So we updated the fireplace by having a wonderfully talented artist (Laurie Many) paint the mantle and brick surround. We added a built in cabinet where the old wood box was. It looked great.

After the improving the fireplace the homeowners could no longer live with the white built in bookcase next to the newly painted and distressed fireplace.  So it is being rebuilt. The homeowners had an armoire in the living room that they did not like the color of, so the same artist painted both that and the dining table, which had been a start white.

With the living room now looking updated, the homeowners decided not to wait on making some other changes. The floral carpet that ran up the stairs and a new wood floor was installed. The upstairs office was also treated to a wood floor and new paint.  The girls' bedroom upstairs needed to be repainted and carpeted, so they decided not to wait on that. The hall was added to the paint list. The back sunroom was added to the paint list. Glossy wood trim was repainted in a satin finish (this took years off the age of the house).

Since most of the interior of the house is now either done or about to be done, it was mentioned to the homeowners by some of the construction workers that they were going to need a new roof soon. Well, when you add the new roof it is your opportunity to change the exterior color scheme too. So, siding, paint, roof are all being planned for.

Now, it must be said that all of these projects really needed to be done. The homeowners expanded their initial goals and budget in order to get the house the way they wanted it now, rather than later.

Not all projects creep, especially to that extent. But since their budget was able to handle it they decided to move quickly throughout the house. It is my job to be respectful of the goals and budget of all homeowners to help them accomplish what they want, when they want, within budget.

These are some of my thoughts, share yours. -MaryBeth

Almost Finished

2011-04-02T17:30:00.001-04:00

My own master bath renovation is nearly complete. I had just been waiting for the inset medicine cabinets to arrive and all would be finished. Or so I thought.

The cabinets arrived. In theory, they were the perfect size to fit in the opening the carpenters left for them. But in reality the inside of the opening is smaller than the outside of the opening. Thus the cabinets were too tight. I did manage to get one of the cabinets in place by sanding the interior opening in the drywall and removing a screw that was sticking out and blocking the space. Here at left is the successful installation of medicine cabinet in a niche.

Sadly, the other cabinet (mine), shown below to the right, is not going to make it. So I had to send it back to be tweaked in the shop. The fault for this one is my own, I should have confirmed the interior measurement, even if the recess is only 4" deep.

Something like this is really no surprise in any renovation. There are always surprised, or challenges. I don't know that I have ever worked on a project without some issue coming up. It is in the dealing with the issues that trades people show their worth. A good trades person knows how to solve the problem, and does so. A bit of creativity is often called for, along with a touch of engineering. I prefer to work with trades people who have enough experience that they can solve these issues successfully as they arise.

So now I am back to my almost finished bathroom. Waiting for the last detail to be readjusted. Sigh.

These are some of my thoughts, share yours.

-Marybeth

Evolution of Personal Style

2011-03-19T06:00:00.001-04:00

I was fortunate last week to be able to hear Alexa Hampton speak at the Michigan Design Center. She runs a successful design firm in New York that was started by her father.

One of her points was about how the personal taste of clients evolve. I have found that to be true also. I have now been in this business long enough to see trends repeat themselves. Of course, the new trend is always an improvement over the old trend. But you can still recognize the ties to the past.

Take the dark brown stained woods that are so popular thanks to Pottery Barn. Didn't our parents have some of that wood in furniture pieces from the 70's? I am sure that my mother's hutch in dark pine is the same color Pottery Barn has been showing in the past few years. Therefore, you will not see the generation that already had that dark wood gravitating towards it again. They have been there, and are done with that. But to the younger clients that color is fresh and new.

It will not surprise me if the pickled wood comes rushing back into fashion within the next five years. And I have a designer friend who says that biscuit colored plumbing fixtures "Are the next avocado green waiting to happen". Therefore, I am sworn to only specify white plumbing fixtures!

I do find that people have a fairly strong tendency to either lean towards the style in which they were raised, or to purposefully lean away from it. For years I leaned away from the style my mother espoused, and now I am finding pieces of it drifting back into my home. ( I even recently admitted to a friend that I like brass.) I have a friend who is selecting a sofa, and she told me about the color she wants to avoid, because it is the color of a sofa her mother has that is still floating around her family.

One of my friends is cleaning up the lines of her style, moving away from the traditional to more transitional. It is interesting that she is also an empty nester, and her life is evolving as well as her taste.

I would imagine that my tastes will continue to evolve, and yet still maintain a relationship with the style I like today.

These are some of my thoughts, share yours.

-Marybeth

Kitchen Trends of Late

2011-03-18T11:43:00.001-04:00

The latest articles on kitchen trends state that popularity of stained wood cabinets has increased. Cherry is increasing in usage, followed by maple. However, a good percentage of homeowners still prefer cabinets painted in the "white family". This can include pure white, creamy white, glazes, and even buttery yellow.

Another current trend is the increase of cabinet front panels on appliances. I am not sure if that means that stainless has decreased in popularity or not. Certainly many homeowners have never liked stainless appliances, so perhaps those are the homes with appliance panels. It still seems to me that appliances seem to be stainless, cabinet paneled. white, or black. In that order of popularity.

I have also read that the range is decreasing in favor, and that many people are going back to the cooktop and separate wall ovens.

Mixing woods within a kitchen still seems fairly popular from my perspective. Often combining painted and stained cabinets can make a kitchen less overwhelming. Sometimes a wood floor in a kitchen, with wood stained cabinets and a wood table can be a bit heavy. The solution to that can be as simple as varying the shades of wood so that they blend, but do not match. Or creating interest with the counters and backsplash to draw the eye away from all the wood. Changing out a floor to a stone tile can also offset wood nicely.

I have to say that there are many beautiful painted cabinets in colors other than white or cream. There are blues and greens and grays and anything you can imagine. However, in my experience homeowners do not want to commit to that much color on something that is so expensive to change. So maybe the fun colors go in the mudroom, or a bathroom.

These are some of my thoughts, share yours.

-Marybeth

Where do you start?

2009-09-08T10:05:00.003-04:00

You want to remodel your kitchen. Where do you start?

As a kitchen designer I always find the easiest clients to work with are those who understand what they want in a kitchen. These are the people who have a "kitchen file" filled with photos of kitchens from magazines that they like. When I meet with clients who have not started that process, then I always tell them to begin by creating such a file. Any designer will gain valuable information about your tastes when looking through a file you have created. So, buy magazines and start cutting.

Next on your "to do" list should be appliances selection. Obviously, every kitchen needs a place to cook food (even for those who don't actually cook), a refrigerator, a sink, microwave, and almost always, a dishwasher. Those are the things we cannot live without. There are also appliances that are slightly lower in priority, but still important to you in your new kitchen. This might include a warming drawer and trash compactor. I have also had clients wanting built in coffee makers, and built in steamers.

With your cooking appliances there are many decisions to be made. Gas? Or Electric? A range? Or separate wall ovens and a cooktop? 4 burners? Or 6? Microwave over the range? Or built in elsewhere? Often those decisions are narrowed down by space restrictions and budget. A smaller kitchen needs more compact appliances, while a larger space allows more flexibility.

Take a trip to a local appliance store, and look at appliances. Talk to people who sell them, and repair them. Then make your decision with the help of your kitchen designer to be sure that your space will accommodate what you have decided on.

The cabinet layout should be done in conjunction with the appliance selection. As a designer, I like to get in on the job in the very early phase. By doing a floorplan for the kitchen I can be sure that all the appliances, the eating area, and traffic paths all have the right amount of space. The cabinet layout will place your work centers, and it should help the kitchen to function more efficiently.

After the kitchen layout is done, or even while it is being done, the cabinet finish and door style are selected. I always have clients select the cabinet finish before the other finishes in the room. It is a key contributor to how the kitchen will look. Selecting your floor materials at the same time as the cabinet finish will allow you to be sure they will work well together.

Countertop selection generally comes after the cabinet finish is decided. Take a sample of your cabinet finish to your granite and countertop showroom to see what works with it. Some people prefer a grainy granite, some prefer something more veined, and some prefer a solid surface material. Laminate is still a reasonable choice for counters (there are of course, more exotic counters of materials such as soapstone, wood, stainless, concrete, etc. -- but I am still finding granite to be the most popular).

Decorative lighting fixtures need to be selected, both for style, and light output. A good lighting design is an essential part of your overall kitchen plan. I can't tell you how often a client's major complaint about their old kitchen is that it is too dark and the lighting is terrible. Plumbing fixtures also need to be selected, usually before the cabinets are ordered. I always tell clients to buy the best kitchen faucet they can afford. The kitchen faucet is typically used more than any other faucet in your home, and one that does not work properly or leaks, is likely to cause frustration regularly.

Backsplash tile and cabinet hardware are the next items to select. There are so many ways to use tile, at relatively low cost, to add a great designer touch to your kitchen. You can create a beautiful backsplash at a very reasonable cost. Talk to your designer about creating a layout for the backsplash.

Of course, your kitchen designer should be able to assist you with all of these selections. I like to have all of these decisions made before having contractors bid on the job. The more they know, the more accurate their bids can be.

These are the steps to a successful kitchen project.
-MaryBeth

Which wood? A consumer guide

2009-08-28T10:14:00.011-04:00

So, now that you have decided to remodel your kitchen, you must decide what wood species and finish you will be using on your cabinets. There are many options today. It seems most of the kitchens done in the 80's had oak cabinets. While oak is still used today, it is not quite as bland as it previously was. Now you can get both quarter sawn (the old standard) and rift cut oak, where the grain is very straight. This adds a contemporary feel to your kitchen. Oak is fabulous in some of the darker stains, and it is especially appropriate when you are trying for an "Arts and Crafts" feel in your kitchen. While you can paint oak, it is generally not done unless trying to match something in an existing home. You will still see the grain through the paint.

Photo 1: Example of dark stained oak

Maple is a great hardwood that is appropriate for both stained and painted finishes. The grain is very tight, so that painting over it works beautifully. Whenever I specify a painted cabinet, it is always on maple. Maple is great for distressing, and you can do that with both a stain and a painted finish. Natural maple, without a stain, is about as light as you can get a wood finish. There are also many medium toned maple stains that give your kitchen a warm look, I will frequently specify a medium toned maple with a glaze. When maple is stained very dark, it does tend to get a bit blotchy, and I have had clients who have not liked that. Also, maple will yellow a bit with age. Usually it just gets a bit warmer in appearance. Not like the maple furniture my mother had that "oranged" with age!

Photo 2: Honey maple kitchen

Cherry is still incredibly popular. It is hard to beat for the its' beauty. I can't imagine cherry ever going out of style. It can be left natural (warning: there will be variations in the color of the wood, that is the way God made it!) or stained. A few years ago it was unheard of to glaze cherry, as it was so beautiful on it's own, but now we glaze it all the time. It is appropriate for both traditional and contemporary kitchens. Lighter cherry will change color more than most other woods. It darkens, but that is not a negative thing. I have never had a client who did not like the color after it darkened.

Alder has been extremely popular with people who like a distressed wood look. The grain and color of alder is quite similar to cherry, but alder is readily available with knots, which are great when you want a more "aged" or distressed look. Alder is not quite as hard as cherry, so it will ding if you bang it around, but in a distressed look, that is the whole point! You can also get clear alder, which is without the knots.

Photo 3: Knotty alder detail

Of course, you can get many other species of wood. Pine (very soft), walnut (beautiful dark brown, but pricey), birdseye maple, and hickory (a wood lover's wood, lots of wild grain and variation, but strong and beautiful). There is also lyptus, which is a fast growing hardwood that is harvested about every 15 years. It has a grain similar to mahogany, and is a very beautiful wood. The grain is a bit more open than cherry, so it lends itself well to a casual look. In addition to these woods, exotics are also available.

Knowing the look you want for your finished kitchen will help you narrow down your choices of wood species. If you do not know what wood you want, show your designer pictures of kitchens that you like, and then they will be able to steer you to the right wood and finish.

These are some of my thoughts, share yours.

-Marybeth

Future Planning

2009-08-26T12:24:00.003-04:00

I am working on a remodeling project for an old client. (Actually, she is only a couple years older than me, so that makes her a very young client). She wants to put a window in a very dark and dreary master bath. As you look at it today, the perfect spot for the window is directly over the toilet. The toilet is currently sandwiched between an extremely dark and narrow shower, and a tub.

The problem with installing the window over the toilet, is that it would severely restrict the ability to enlarge the shower in the future.

The solution, I think, is to plan for the future now. I will measure the bathroom, and draw floorplans of possible arrangements for the future bathroom remodel. That way, the window placement will work for both the present, and the future.

You never want to have to undo work that you have done, so plan wisely.

These are some of my thoughts, share yours.
-MaryBeth

Saving Money

2009-08-13T06:00:00.000-04:00

Recently I finished a job where the client and I employed a lot of money saving strategies. The job was a kitchen remodel and sunroom, eating nook addition.

The first way we saved a significant amount of money was to use alder cabinets rather than cherry. Alder has the tight grain of cherry, and clear alder (without knots) looks very much like cherry. Alder is slightly softer than cherry, so dents may show a bit more. But for a savings of about 10% with some companies, it is a great way to get the cherry look, on an oak budget! (Oak being typically the least expensive of the hardwoods)

When it came to countertops, it actually ended up being less expensive to use granite, rather than a solid surface or engineered quartz. We found a mid priced granite that looked great.

The next way we saved was to furnish the space through Craigslist. I started looking for furnishings for her on Craigslist, and once we found the first piece of furniture, she took over searching daily. We found her an antique Chippendale sofa, a beautiful settee covered in high end designer fabric, and two Loius VX style Bergere chairs with matching ottomans, also in a designer fabric.

I will write more on this project, and include photos later, but for now, consider shopping on Craigslist if you are looking for a way to save money. Keep in mind that if you have to reupholster something you might as well have bought new. It is like looking through garage sales, you have to look at a lot of junk before you find something worth buying. Also, people who are selling the furniture tend to now know styles, proper names, etc. for their pieces, so be the expert yourself rather than relying on the seller.

But if you are up for waiting and watching, there are great finds to be had!

These are some of my thoughts, share yours.
-MaryBeth

Selecting Fabrics

2009-08-11T16:21:00.002-04:00

Today I received a package from UPS that contained 14 yards of fabric for a client that I had sent to be backed. This client has a very colorful family room transformation underway. The fabric that she wanted for her loveseat was perfect in color, but did not meet the durability standards I commonly suggest. So, the solution was to send the fabric to a company that put a knit backing on it, adding strength.

The cost is reasonable (under $10/yd) and I am sure it will make a huge difference in the durability of this cotton print fabric.

I once went to a house where the homeowner had extensively remodeled her kitchen and family room. Everything was beautifully done (I was not the designer on this job) except the seats on the kitchen barstools were covered in plastic to protect them. There is no need for this! You can have fabrics vinylized, you can add backing, you can add moisture barriers. There is no need for plastic slipcovers!

Other services include wallcovering treatments, fire protection treatments, and stain repellent services.

So if the fabric you long for is not suitable for your intended use, consider having it treated.

These are some of my thoughts, share yours.
-MaryBeth

Selecting Materials

2009-08-07T14:47:00.003-04:00

Today I am going to shop for some hard materials for a client's kitchen. Currently they have a brick arch around the range. The kitchen was done in the early 90's, and it is time to update.
While brick is still a viable option for a material to use indoors, I am going to suggest something different. Stone. Now, natural stone can be either tiles, or cut stone. There are also many synthetic stone products that look pretty good.

However, I admit, it am a bit of a natural materials snob. I prefer the real thing. I find that it has a natural beauty that is missing in synthetic products. So I am looking today for real stone veneer. I used this product on another job with fantastic results. On that job I used natural stone veneer on the walls, and combined it with the same stone (limestone) in tile form for the floor and the back of a niche on the walls. The resulting texture and beauty is great.

Since I find clients to be so visual, I will borrow some of the stone veneer to show them in hopes of updating the brick to something with a timeless appeal.

Here's some of my thoughts, share yours.
-Marybeth

Selecting Wood Finishes

2009-07-21T14:47:00.015-04:00

One of the key decisions in any kitchen remodel is the finish of your cabinets. Will they be stained wood? Will they be painted? Will there be a glaze or distressing? Or will you mix finishes in your kitchen? Many clients generally have a clear idea of what finish they want on the cabinets. Some are “white kitchen” people, and some are “wood finish” people, often people feel very strongly about the finish that they have always wanted.

Other clients are less sure about what they want the kitchen to look like, and need to see photographs and sketches to visualize their kitchen with various finishes. I still see clients doing both painted and stained finishes, I think that if you select a finish that you love, then you do not have to be so concerned about fads and trends.

Once clients have decided on what finish they want, the next step is to decide how much of that finish they will use, and how to balance the room so that it does not feel too heavy. Often clients will want to use a wood tone finish, but are concerned with using wood cabinets in conjuction with a wood floor. Or they are concerned with having a kitchen that is too white, and may feel sterile.
One way of balancing finishes is to use a combination of painted and wood finishes within a kitchen. This continues to be very popular way to treat kitchens.

In this kitchen the stained cherry island helps “ground” the kitchen and ties in with the wood floor. The stained cherry is also used in the butler’s pantry. (see below)

When using wood cabinet tones and wood floors it is important for there to be a contrast between the flooring and the cabinet. If you opt for lighter cabinets, go with a darker floor, or if your cabinets are darker, lighten the floor by a couple of shades. I have done kitchens with a perimeter of wood toned cabinets, with a painted island, such as the distressed cabinets in the below.

It is also common to do a perimeter of painted cabinets and a stained island. The concept with a different finish on an island is that the island is a piece of furniture, or something unique, so the different finish makes sense.

In kitchens without island the most common place to add a contrasting finish is around the cooking center. It can help to identify a specific “zone” within your kitchen when a contrasting finish is used on that space. Keep in mind that using a contrasting finish will draw attention to that cabinet, so use it wisely, draw attention to specific focal points, and not to areas that will be unsightly in real life. (Many desk areas would fall in to this category). Sometimes the contrasting finish is used in a couple of places throughout the kitchen. This can be particularly effective in a larger space.

In the kitchen below, the island and the cooktop area are done in a knotty alder stain and glaze, and the perimeter are in a maple linen finish.

The goal with mixing finishes is to create an attractive balance of materials that keeps things interesting without being a distraction. Too many finishes can make a kitchen look busy, but the right balance can add character and interest.

Here's some of my thoughts, share yours.

-MaryBeth

Retail Pricing and Other Myths

2009-07-16T06:00:00.003-04:00

I do not claim to be an expert in all fields, but from what I have observed in design and construction retail pricing means nothing. It seems that the “retail price” of something is a completely imaginary number that has been decided upon by manufacturers.

Here is how is works with most cabinet lines. There is a made up, retail price, that no one in his or her right mind would ever pay for a particular kitchen. Then, the manufacturer gives you discounts to make you feel like you are getting a good deal. In fact, many times you are getting a good deal. But the notion that you are saving 40% is somewhat faulty, because you would never have paid the retail price in the first place! NO ONE pays the retail price for those cabinet lines.
Now, I have to state that Cabinets by Graber does not price in that way. They give you a price that is the price that is the same price for everyone.

The retail price myth also happens in fabric, furniture, and even carpet. In many ways the retail price stands for a “not to exceed” price.

I charge my clients an hourly design fee, and then pass on discounts to them whenever possible. I think that with the more educated consumers we now have, the days of high mark-ups are long gone. If my clients want to make purchases through me, that is great. If they don’t, then I have still been paid for my time.

There are certain “consumer clubs” which shall remain nameless, where customers pay a large entrance fee with the promise of buying things at significant discounts. It breaks my heart when a client tells me they just spend over $4000 to join such a group. They could have saved their money and bought from me! There have been instances when I cross priced the discount club, and my cost for the client was exactly the same, and I was able to order the product more efficiently. So my opinion of those groups is that they are not good value.

Another service that designers can offer to their clients is access to “Trade only” products. There are many manufacturers that sell their products to designers and architects only. The Michigan Design Center houses many showrooms that work only with “Trade” members. They have tens of thousands of fabrics that are available only to designers. They have furniture lines that are exclusive to the trade and many other products as well. The furnishings you see in furniture stores (what few furniture stores that are left in this economy) and the fabrics you see in fabric stores are a very small fraction of what is available.And, if you buy through me, you will not be paying retail!

Here's some of my thoughts, share yours.

-Marybeth

Selecting Durable Carpet

2009-07-14T10:57:00.005-04:00

Carpet should be either a good quality nylon, or wool. Both of these fibers have great resilience and stain resistance. I have had bad experiences with other fibers, and remain skeptical that they are a good investment. I know improvements are being made all the time with other fibers, but in my own home I would not take the chance. A carpet rep once told me that all nylons are not the same, and I believe her, that makes it worth it to buy from a company with a good reputation. Buy the best quality carpet you can (because having to replace carpet is a huge pain). Be sure it is dense, if you can feel the backing between the fibers, it is not as dense as it could and will show wear. I look for tightly twisted yarns, and a dense carpet, a pattern or multiple colors help hide wear. In reality a white carpet does not get any dirtier than a darker color, but you sure notice it sooner. I jokingly suggest that clients buy carpet the color of their pet’s hair, so when they shed it will not be noticeable. A good warranty is also a must, as is a good quality pad. I always warn the installers that I am very picky (I am) and ask for their best installer. Be sure to get a good warranty on stain resistance and wear for nylon carpets.

My favorite carpet is wool. It is the measuring staff by which we compare all other carpets. It is durable and soft. I have wool carpet in most of my house, and I find it very easy to clean. You can get wool carpet in almost any style. From contemporary berbers to sisal looks, to traditional cut pile styles. One of my clients had a plush carpet installed in her family room and told me that when she walks on it in bare feet she feels like she is walking on baby lamb bottoms! Another wonderful aspect of wool carpet is that it is VERY environmentally friendly.

An example of a textured wool carpet. The use of multiple colors of yard adds character and beauty.

I am a huge fan of neutral carpet. It is easy to change wall color, and even furniture, but carpet is more expensive and more trouble to change. In my experience clients do get sick of colored carpet. That spring green that looks so current today may be the next avocado green waiting to happen. This is not to say that all carpet needs to be boring beige. I love a carpet with texture, it adds interest, and helps hide lint. The tone on tone carpets that are available now are very interesting. They combine cut pile with loop pile, and can have either geometric or more organic patterns in them.

An example of a tone-on-tone nylon carpet. It adds interest without being busy.

If you have had to move all of your furniture more than once for carpet installation than you know that it is not much more fun than a root canal. So buying durable carpet, that will last, is important.

Of course, buying carpet through my office is a great way to save some money. You can be assured of high quality, and I pass on discounts to you. I have been using the same carpet installer for 15 years, and he is the only carpet installer I would want working in my own home.

Here's some of my thoughts, share yours.
-MaryBeth

Designing for Durability

2009-07-09T06:00:00.010-04:00

If there are any plastic slipcover fans out there, I have to tell you that I am not your designer. I believe that our houses are to be lived in. And, because I am the mother of 4 children, and have 3 dogs currently living in my house, I strongly believe in durability.

Often people will tell me that they plan to live with crappy college furniture until the kids are big enough so that they do not trash the furniture. That is a very sad approach. In my opinion you can have both beauty and durability. Not that damage might not occur, I have a bulldog who has chewed skirts off chairs, and baseboards off walls. (bitter spray is my friend) But I am a strong believer that when you buy quality, you can expect your furnishings to last a long time.

the guilty party-he chews everything

When selecting upholstered furniture for durability you have to consider both the inside and the outside. The frame should be kiln-dried hardwood, glued and screwed or doweled. Eight way hand tied coil springs have been a sign of quality for many years. In my own house, that is what I look for. The frame should not rock or squeak when you move it, or when a child sits on the arm of the chair.

This fabric is rated at 102,000 cycles. That is extremely durable.

The fabric selection is very important for the durability of the furniture. There is an abrasion test done to fabrics, and in my own house I would not use anything less that 30,000 double rubs, or cycles, for furniture that will take abuse. (by abuse I mean kids and dogs coming in contact with it) A stain and soil repellent finish is also helpful. Look for a dense weave, and one that does not have "floats" in the fabric that can pull. Darker colors, and patterns often help hide dirt. A word of warning, faux suede fabrics, also known as microfibers, are durable, and they usually clean easily, however, they are magnets for pet hair. Fabrics can be treated to add stain resistance, and they can also be backed to increase durability. Ask your designer about these options if you find the perfect fabric that is not durable enough.

Leather is durable. It will stretch and sag somewhat over time, and there are likely to be imperfections in the hide that may show up as light scratches. There are levels of quality in leathers, as you can imagine. It is easy to clean, and some of the distressed leathers are very soft and will hide sins easily. One of my clients used buffalo skin for some bar stools, and she asked for the most beat up skin they had available.

Today, many people are using outdoor fabrics for indoor upholstery. These acrylic fabrics resist fading and are made to be very durable and stainproof. I am using one of those fabrics for a client in her family room in front of windows. The color and pattern options of those fabrics are amazing. You would never know they are made to be outdoor fabrics. You can even get an outdoor velvet.

The point of this blog entry is that quality furniture can last with kids and dogs if you buy wisely. Here's some of my thoughts, share yours.
-MaryBeth

Accessibility for Seniors

2009-07-07T06:00:00.007-04:00

This past weekend I met with some dear clients who are trying to make their condo into an "aging in place" environment. The goal is to help clients maintain their independence and dignity by being able to live in their own home and care for themselves.

When they purchased the condo, they thought through some of the issues they would face down the road. It is a ranch style condo, so it should be easily adaptable. At least we hope so.
Already we have had a handrail installed outside the front door, to make the 2 steps easier to navigate. A ramp may not be an option in this community, so we are hoping the handrail and the front, and the grab bar at the garage entrance will be sufficient.

The latest issue is the bathroom. It seems Mrs. dear client is having some mobility issues.
A bathtub can be difficult to get in an out of. Even with a grab bar, there is a significant amount of upper body strength required to get out of a tub from a sitting position.

The next obvious place to adapt is the shower. They are fortunate enough to have a separate tub and shower. There is a shower pan in the bottom of the shower, meaning that it is not a roll in shower, so there is a 4" threshold to step over. I think this is manageable if we can install grab bars for stability.

Currently there is just a single lever handle that controls the volume and temperature of the shower, and a single showerhead that is about 6' above the floor. In order to make this work better for Mrs. dear client I am researching an adjustable height showerhead. Mrs. does not like to wash her hair in the shower, so we need to be able to adjust the height of the head so that her hair can remain dry. A handheld showerhead is not something she is interested in because if you do not have a firm grip on them, they can take off and spray everywhere. It sounds funny, and may even look funny, but if it happens to you it does not feel funny. So my preference is an adjustable height showerhead, typically this is a showerhead mounted on a tall rod.

We are hoping to avoid a major bathroom renovation at this time. I am researching options that can use as much of the existing plumbing as possible while giving the clients the functions that they require.

I will let you know how this one turns out. Here's some of my thoughts, share yours.
-MaryBeth

Kitchen Remodeling in Today's Economy

2009-07-02T06:00:00.002-04:00

Even in a tight economy people are still investing in their homes. Since home prices have dropped, we no longer have the built in equity that used to be so readily available. I used to be asked by clients about how much of their kitchen investment they would see in return. I no longer get asked that question. In this economic climate people are investing in their homes for themselves, and not just for future sales potential.

Kitchen remodeling still ranks as the favorite home improvement. Often, kitchen remodeling is triggered by poor cabinetry design, appliances that need to be replaced, or lighting that needs to be updated. With the economy as it is, everyone wants to be sure to get good value for their money. A good kitchen design and sustainable quality materials are the foundation of any successful remodel.

Timeless design is essential and is the genesis of a great kitchen. No one wants their kitchen to look dated in 5 years, after a major kitchen remodel. It is best to keep the cabinet design and finish, as well as the countertops, “timeless”. Accessories, wall color, and even window treatments can easily be updated in 5 years if they go out of style. I always tell clients that if they liked a particular finish for the past 5 years, they will probably still like it in another 5 years.

A good kitchen layout is vital. Poor appliance placement or not enough space between counters or walkways can quickly frustrate the homeowner. I once went into a newly remodeled kitchen that was attractively done. Unfortunately the appliance placement was such that the refrigerator door hit the cabinets across from it because the aisle was too narrow. The National Kitchen and Bath Association has guidelines for appliance placement, counterspace, clearances, etc. Do not try to design your kitchen without professional help. The person working in the big box store may know how to use the computer design program, but that does not mean that the fuction of the layout will be appropriate. The goal is a kitchen layout that looks and works beautifully.

High quality cabinets at a good price are essential (hint: Graber) and are a great investment for years to come. I have found that semi-custom cabinets cannot hold a candle to Graber Cabinets, both in price, aesthetics and functionality. By the time details are added to make semi-cabinets fit into the space, your cost will increase, costing you more than Graber for a product that is lower in quality. Your cabinets should be considered a long term investment, so quality construction details, and real wood construction are a must.

Recently I read an article that stated that the most important ingredient to sustainable design was buying products that last. Cabinets that last only 5-15 years are neither good for the environment, or a budget! The wood, the finish and the construction details are what makes a cabinet last, and Graber Cabinets will last.

Lighting can almost always be improved upon dramatically during a remodeling project. Clients often tell me that their major complaint in their old kitchen is lack of proper lighting. As the human eye ages it needs more light, and in many parts of the country with long winters, the lighting is essential. Frequently I specify recessed cans, decorative hanging light fixtures, and undercabinet lighting within a kitchen. My favorite kind of undercabinet lighting is xenon, which is a white light, that does not get as hot as the halogens, it also looks good with granite and stone countertops. LED lights are on the horizon, and will be able to be used in kitchens soon, right now the technology is not quite where it needs to be.

Energy saving appliances are environmentally responsible and are a great investment. Appliances have come a long way from harvest gold and avocado green! Now people are using the appliances as one of the main defining elements in most kitchen designs. The appliances are what help the kitchen to function so placement is critical. I always have my clients work with a knowledgeable appliance salesperson, and have them select the appliances early in the design process. There are many new innovations in kitchen appliances, from counter-depth refrigerators, to warming drawers and microwave drawers, and the homeowner needs to evaluate his or her needs in order to make the appropriate selections.

Here's some of my thoughts, share yours.
-MaryBeth

Green Design

2009-06-25T10:56:00.001-04:00

There has been much written about "Green Design" lately. No doubt, most people have heard the term. So what is it anyway? Well, there is a bit of confusion about that.

The basic principle is that environmentally friendly, sustainable, or "Green" design is design that minimizes the impact on the environment. That is done through using sustainable or renewable resources and materials, limiting pollution created through the manufacturing process as well as through transportation of materials and products.

So if I had my choice between two stones, one from the West coast of the US, and the other from Indiana (I live in Michigan) it would be more environmentally friendly for me to select the Indiana stone.

Many environmentally friendly issues are easy to decide on. For example using wood from certified forests, where re-planting takes place is an easy one. Bamboo is considered a renewable resource because it grows so rapidly, so it is often used in interior flooring. Wool carpet is another easy choice. Most paint companies are now producing products that are "greener" than in the past.

The confusion comes from the fact that many products have "green" claims, but at this point there is no verification process. So, we often have to use our best judgment in making decisions that are environmentally responsible.

I recently read an article that discussed the fact that quality is key in making environmentally friendly purchases. We need to get far far away from the "disposable" mindset of the past 25 years. If you are remodeling a kitchen and using granite counters, do NOT put in low quality cabinets. Even if they are considered a green product, the fact that they will need to be replaced in 10 years means that they are not, in reality an environmentally friendly product. If you have to replace them, then it is unlikely that your granite counters will be able to be saved, and granite takes millions of years to form. So the "throw away" costs are far beyond what the replacement cabinets would cost.

We are learning more about ways to be responsible as designers every day. I am sure that I will revisit this topic.

Here's some of my thoughts, share yours.
-MaryBeth

Universal Design

2009-06-23T10:51:00.001-04:00

As a designer I was trained in school to incorporate "Universal Design" whenever possible. "Universal Design" or "Accessible Design" is simply designing in such a way that the design or layout works for most people. For example; a wider walkway will work well for older people using walkers, but it also tends to work better for mothers carrying children, or pushing strollers, or people in wheelchairs.

Other examples of "Universal Design":
-Study has shown that rocker light switches are easier for almost everyone to use. You can turn the switch on or off with your elbow if your hands are full.
-Lever handles are easier to use than round knobs.
-Flooring in a bathroom that is too slippery is dangerous to everyone when it is wet, a tile with an appropriate slip resistant rating is essential.
-We also know that even able bodied people can trip over area rugs, and I speak from experience.

Universal design principles include keeping things simple and intuitive in design. I hate it when I cannot figure out where the light switch is to the overhead light. It should be intuitive. We design kitchen countertops to be about 36" above the floor. That height is the most comfortable for the largest slice of the population. Of course, sometimes adjustments must be made to accommodate someone who is very tall, or very short, or someone in a wheelchair. Having at least one countertop in a kitchen that is 30" above the floor will work well for someone in a wheelchair, and it also happens to be ideal for a baking center.

Universal Design benefits not only those who are older and beginning to have mobility issues, but also those who may have a temporary disability. When my back feels fine I have no problem with my front loading washer and dryer, but on a day when my back aches, I wish they were on a riser.

In every project that I do I consider "Universal Design" factors. Sometimes they are incorporated, sometimes we plan for future installation of these features. We use the phrase "Aging in Place" for homeowners who plan to live in their homes for as long as they are able. With that in mind it is important to consider the changes in the human body as we age, and to meet those needs with the design of the space.

Here's some of my thoughts, share yours.
-MaryBeth

Considerations in selecting a builder

2009-06-18T09:36:00.002-04:00

Today I am working on rounding up bids for a client job. I have 2 different contractors bidding this job. It is very important to consider all the factors when selecting a contractor. First, the bids need to be for the exact same thing. Both builders have to have all the information. A complete set of plans is vital, with elevations. Second, obviously price needs to be compared, but also compare the satisfaction of previous clients of each of the builders. Did they get the job done on time and on budget? And would the clients hire them again? I can't stress how important it is to check references. A low price with poor customer service or slow response is frustrating and often not worth the trouble. The goal should be a fair price, and excellent quality and customer service. Finally, it goes without saying that all the builders must be licensed and insured.

I have been working in this industry for 15 years. I have done a lot of projects with a lot of builders, and there are only a handful of builders in my locale that I would recommend without reservation. So many things can go wrong on a project. I have heard many horror stories from clients, and have lived through some difficult issues with builders on projects. Issues come up on projects, that is a given. But having a builder who deals with them promptly, honestly, and with integrity is key to a successful outcome.

Here's some of my thoughts, share yours.
-MaryBeth